"floated, painted wall"

[agoodgame]

I am about to hang wallpaper on walls that have been 'floated' with joint compound. (very smooth surface.) below the joint compound is semigloss acrylic paint. Should I prime this surface? Should I just size it? thanks for the help.
ali

[Jeff Evans]

Let me get this straight; The walls underneath the compound were semi gloss paint? I hope they were deglossed somehow or that the joint compound was mixed with an additive that promotes adhesion. Both together would be preferrable. Depending on your wallpaper type, if the compound isn't sound the wallpaper will lift at the seams, pulling the mud with it.
Please clarify for us the exact nature of the surface so we can be of more help. Horror stories abound from improper wall preparation, and I have a few lately from plaster jobs not done by me that came loose after I installed paper.

[agoodgame]

thanks for the response, jeff. the walls were not prepped, or any additives added to the mud. :confused: looks as if the walls were just floated over the semi-gloss paint. can I use a drywall primer over the mud? or should I sand it all down?
ali

[Bill Archibald]

Ali,

Jeff has made a very good observation and if I were doing the job for money, I would be derelict in my professionalism not to point out the possibility of disaster to the homeowner ...... BUT (could you tell that was coming :lol: ) if it were in my own home, I would take a chance.

Perhaps you could test one wall, or part of a wall, because taking all the JC off is one heck of a job. If you decide on that course of action, let us know and we can give some better ways than sanding it.

Most of us would recommend a product named Draw-tite to be applied to the JC. This stuff is good for penetrating and sealing porous material like JC. I would put two coats on it myself. Draw-tite is very difficult to find in many areas of the country - outside of SoCal. If you can not find it, Zinsser makes a knock-off named Gardz. Again, two coats.

If you want to size the Gardz, that would not be a bad idea. (size is a thinned paste. wallpaper prep is an acrylic coating applied before wallpaper. Many people use Draw-tite or Gardz as a wallpaper prep. I do not prefer either directly under vinyl coated papers)

After that prep work, hang some sheets and wait until dry, perhaps even a week, and see if any seams pop.

I would be remiss not to mention a disaster that another hanger encountered. Although it did not involve JC over semi-gloss paint, it did involve a national wallpaper prep directly on sheetrock. It took three months for the seams to pop. They pulled the paste and the Shieldz right off the sheetrock.

Point being, sometimes it can take a long time for seams to pop and even when using materials as manufacturers intended.

-Bill

[Jeff Evans]

Actually, I'm not sure if Alison is a hanger doing this for money or a homeowner. If it were me, I'd refuse to do it unless the client signed off on the possible failure down the road. Like Bill, if it were my house:eek:, then I'd go for it and sue myself for gross negligence when it all fell off.:devil: Don't even want to think about scraping and washing all that mud off. Actually, to be accurate, spraying, cussing, scraping, washing, a little more cussing, and then hopefully a good wipe down and done. No big deal, right? Anything but getting all of it off and starting from scratch, dulling the paint, possibly priming it with Gardz, AND adding adhesive to the mud, is rolling the dice. End of story. Am I hard line? Perhaps, but who's holding the bag when the proverbial Chickens come home to roost in the form of splitting seams? Why, the poor hanger who went in like a Lamb to the slaughter, a victim of the painter or handyman who rushed in and didn't bother to do things correctly.

[Bill Archibald]

If it were me, I'd refuse to do it unless the client signed off on the possible failure down the road. Like Bill, if it were my house:eek:, then I'd go for it and sue myself for gross negligence when it all fell off.:devil:
-snip-
but who's holding the bag when the proverbial Chickens come home to roost in the form of splitting seams. Why, the poor hanger who went in like a Lamb to the slaughter, a victim of the painter or handyman who rushed in and didn't bother to do things correctly.

Absolutely correct, Jeff.

If it's a paid job, explain the possible disaster, then get it fixed, get an iron clad waiver, or RUN. :eek: :help:

-Bill

[agoodgame]

thanks for all the knowledge, guys. I am the hanger, not the owner. The option that bill had to draw-tite and try a few sheets... could be an option. Sign off from the homeowner is not an option.:(
so... what alternatives do I have, rather than sanding the beast?
ali <---- trying to avoid slaughter :cool:

[Jeff Evans]

I guess Draw tite or Gardz the areas with 2 coats and hope for the best. Good luck!:)

Jeff

[Boston Hangman]

thanks for all the knowledge, guys. I am the hanger, not the owner. The option that bill had to draw-tite and try a few sheets... could be an option. Sign off from the homeowner is not an option.:(
so... what alternatives do I have, rather than sanding the beast?
ali <---- trying to avoid slaughter :cool:

Point being, sometimes it can take a long time for seams to pop and even when using materials as manufacturers intended.

-Bill

Ali

You do have other options.
Always!

If the client or decorator won't sign off , ask yourself why,
or why would they when you seem to be willing to do the job without them signing off. It is no skin off their nose.
It is however your time, money and reputation that is on the line!

Who did the prep?
I am assuming it wasn't you from the first post.
Are they willing to guarantee that your wallpaper will not pop off the walls when it dries and pulls the JC right off the wall!
I doubt it ,so why should you?

I appreciate that you obviously want to do the job. I don't know if this is an important decorator that you do a lot of work for or a potential new decorator or just a possible new client you want to add to your customer base.

We have all been there and I know that this advice is easier to give than take.
I , myself had looked at a job thru a referral from a decorator ,I wanted to get in with .
I went out to the house and the homeowners told me of all the work they had done to the room:eek: then they told me how they had this GREAT painter who prepped the walls. Lots and lots of JC! :eek: :eek:
I had to advise them that although their painter was GREAT he had done something that did not work for wallpaper. He had also gone ahead and primed the walls with either Shieldz or Prep N' Size. :eek: :eek: :eek:

I had to tell them the bad news. They would have to have the painter or myself put one more coat of the Shieldz or P N' S on the walls and I would have to line the walls, I said I would line the walls let it sit at least a week and then if no problems hang the finish paper . They were less than thrilled ($$$), but because they wanted this job to go well and the wallpaper cost more money than liner paper they decided to give it a go.

I am happy to say that thus far they have not called to complain I did state that although this was a good test and would make the wallpaper look better it was still no guarantee that the wall would hold the wallpaper !
We cannot guarantee that which we have no control over.

In a perfect world here is what I would do:

1. get them to sign off

2. do the extra prep suggested here by experts in installation of wallpaper
2a. make sure you get paid for all this extra prep as well $$$

If that is not possible ,I would walk away!:banana: or as Bill stated RUN!

If it's a paid job, explain the possible disaster, then get it fixed, get an iron clad waiver, or RUN.

-Bill

Ali
If you ask yourself and/or consider any of the advice so freely given you on this website devoted to the help and betterment of all wallpaper installations and still decide to go ahead with the job..........let us know good or bad how it turns out!:disco:

Good Luck!
Mark W.
Boston chapter

[shelw]

Another option that has not been suggested is to line with liner paper which is a non woven. It does not "pull" on the wall and will keep most unsound surfaces safe to hang on, Gardz, draw tite 1st - definitely. Also prime over the liner - 2 coats, then install w/c. Much easier than removing joint compound!! (disclaimer always the best, of course....)

[shelw]

Oops, sorry Boston, I was skimming the posts ( all i have time to do these days...) then I saw you suggested liner.

[Chris Murphy]

Shelly- you bringing your pool game to the Workshop?

[shelw]

Hey Chris, I really wanted to go to the workshop, but I have to have shoulder surgery on the 15th of June.....Hopefully I'll be back in shape for St. Louis....

[Chris Murphy]

Cripes, sorry to hear. I take it you're going to be Ok, but is there anything we can do for you?