Help--No primer used during installation

[mikeb]

Common wallpaper removal problem: no primer was used during installation. What I have is vinyl wallpaper applied directly to painted drywall. Probably about 10-15 years old, though true age is unknown.

Attempt at removing: I peeled away the vinyl leaving a fuzzy brown backing on the walls and used Zinnser’s DIF concentrate applied with a sprayer. The DIF really did nothing to aid in removal. It did not bubble up or peel away. After two soakings I was able to very slowly and painfully scrape away the paper backing about an inch at a time using a putty knife. The adhesive for the most part remained on the wall despite the scraping.

Any advice on how to speed up the process, ease removal and get rid of the adhesive left on the paint? Would some kind of paint remover soak through the backing loosen the paint and thereby allow the paper backing, adhesive and paint to all come down off of the drywall at once???

I would like to paint the walls when the removal is complete, but it’s not looking so good right now.

[Chris Nelson]

http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/wallpaper_stripping.html

[Boston Hangman]

Attempt at removing: I peeled away the vinyl leaving a fuzzy brown backing on the walls and used Zinnser’s DIF concentrate applied with a sprayer. The DIF really did nothing to aid in removal. It did not bubble up or peel away. After two soakings I was able to very slowly and painfully scrape away the paper backing about an inch at a time using a putty knife. The adhesive for the most part remained on the wall despite the scraping.

I and many others here feel your pain!:eek:
Are you sure that the fuzzy brown backing isn't layers o' drywall .
If it is, just tear back loose pieces and seal with Draw Tite or similiar.:carrot:
Skim with dura bond sand and seal again with DW or Gardz.

Good luck!;)

[Jeff Evans]

Yep feeling your pain quite literally, as I just went through the same thing Friday. No shortcuts are available I'm afraid, you just have to get through it. I took 5 hours to strip a 4-5 roll bathroom. Lots of drywall peeling and gouging just to get all the paper off. Sanded everything down, peeled away all loose drywall paper and sealed with Draw Tite. If you can't find that you can use a knock-off called Gardz. Much more readily available unfortunately. I skimmed the walls with 20 minute hot mud mixed NOT with water but Hamilton's acrylic add mix poured in for added bonding. Home Depot carries both in the drywall section. I Highly advise the add mix as a bonding agent to cut down on the possibility of the mud peeling off. Sand and seal again with Draw Tite or Gardz. A very messy job, from the nightmare removal to the sanding dust. Good luck, I'm still recovering from mine, which I sanded, primed and hung today.

Jeff

[Boston Hangman]

I skimmed the wall with 20 minute hot mud mixed NOT with water but Hamilton's acrylic add mix poured in for added bonding. Home Depot carries both in the drywall section. I Highly advise the add mix as a bonding agent to cut down on the possibility of the mud peeling off.

Never heard of that ..what exactly is it?:confused:

Sounds good...I'll have to stop by the HD see if we have it here on the right coast;)

not sure where MikeB is from..but there are other products as well out here from some drywall company in Canada. USG, I think.

[Jeff Evans]

Mark- I formerly used water with a little Synko bonding liquid added, but the Hamilton's is so thin that I figured I shouldn't water it down much. Any added bonding agent is probably better than none at all. Draw Tite and Gardz are so shiny that I get a little nervous about putting mud right over the top, although that's supposedly ok to do. Here's the acid test too: It's a real pain in the arse to clean the mud pan if that stuff dries in it.:eek: Same with the other add mix I used too.

Jeff

[Chris Murphy]

I'd be careful about adding anything but water to hot mud: it needs water to slake the lime, and become less alkaline. I agree that it doesn't like Gardz/Draw Tite: it needs a mechanical bond, or use the bonding liquid on the primer. Joint compound does have adhesive properties (not topping compound!), and so does spackle.

[cgreene]

I had my bathroom ceiling replastered some years ago my husband hired a guy who said he was a plasterer. The day he finished it looked good the next day it fell to the floor.
We hired another plaster that we knew, and was too busy when we needed him, when we got the first guy.
2nd plaster painted the ceiling with glue(look like elmers glue)Then spred the new plaster. After letting dry long time I used Draw tite and the paper is still hanging tight.

[mikeb]

[/I]

Are you sure that the fuzzy brown backing isn't layers o' drywall .

Good luck!;)

Yes, I'm sure that the backing isn't drywall. That actually would be nice. Instead I'm trying every conceivable method for removal. Nothing but slow, character-building pain has resulted.

Thanks for all of the quick advice and replys. I was able to do some research on all of the other threads (sorry I didn't do that first), and am now pretty committed to just getting through the removal process as best I can, sealing, skimming and sealing again. Hopefully I can get it pretty enough for paint.

What is everyone using for skimming over Draw-tite or Guardz? Is the sheetrock +3 lighweight joint compound (blue top) acceptable? That stuff is easy to apply and sand.

[mikeb]

FYI - I've got about 20 more sections to get removed, and for whoever was curious, I'm in NJ.