removal when primed with Shieldz clear

[shelw]

Is Shieldz clear like R35 or Tack prep, where I'm going to have problems removing? Paper is prepasted hung with activator. Thanks

[Jeff Evans]

I've only used it a couple times but it doesn't have tack like R35. It's just the clear version of Shieldz- I think...

[Bill Archibald]

Shelly,

There are such diverse opinions about all the Shieldz variations, you'd think there were ten different products poured into the same can at the factory - maybe that's the problem, no quality control.

Some swear by it, have used it for centuries, and apparently sleep with the stuff.

Others swear AT it, think it's a bane to the paperhaning world, and wouldn't pollute a sewer with it.

I think when it comes to ease of removal, the secret is dry time. Many of these "dries in two hours" products need eight hours to dry to guard against PSSS (peeling sunburn skin syndrome)

Or you could just use a proven winner that I have heard no bad reports about, Wallpaper Prep Coat, by Swing. Dries in 20 minutes.

-Bill

[shelw]

Bill, it's not a question of what to prime with. I have to do a removal job, and , for a change, I know what the wall was primed with, Shieldz clear. I was hoping to know how difficult a prepasted hung with activator would be to remove from a wall primed with Shieldz clear! I personally have never used this product.Is anyone from Zinnsser lurking out there?

[shelw]

By the way, I also love the Swing prep coat. Always nice to see that blue tint when doing a removal, cause you know the wall will not shred! It's also less expensive than Zinnsser products, and has been on the market forever. I wonder why it's not more readily available. I have do drive into Pa. to a little mom & pop store to get it, but it's only around $15 a gal if I'm remembering correctly. I buy in bulk only about once a year, so it's hard to remember.

[Cliff Hayes]

Shel,
Shieldz Clear has been my primer of choice for years and years, and I've never had a problem removing my own work. In fact, I know it's going to be a good day when I have to take down one of my own jobs.
Cliff

[Bill Archibald]

Sorry Shelly for not answering correctly. I misunderstood from which direction you were going. Looks like Cliff answered correctly, but then again, he's one that finds no fault with Shieldz d:( :hide:

Not to give this advice from the pulpit, but this is one reason I find it critical to test during an estimate. I'm sure you usually do.

Funny little story last week. Went to look at a removal and hang job. It was a typical old cheap prepasted PBV. ALL the seams had popped and it looked like bare sheet rock under. I tore one seam back an inch or so (at eye level in the middle of the liv rm wall :eek:) Seeing that it look like bare sheet rock I really felt it was necessary to test a larger area. I asked the homeowner (85 year old sweet grandmother of 18) if there was an area she didn't mind me making look like hell. "You've already started there, it can't look much worse?" :headslap:

I felt bad, but with all the popped seams, nothing could make it TOO much worse. (BTW, it looks like the paper substrate will come off w/o too much damage)

BTW, last couple of cases I bought of Swing Prep was $12.30 a gallon. I KNOW the store did not mark it up as much as they would have liked. It will be more next time, but still, what a bargain.

-B.

[shelw]

This one is a ceiling, so nowhere to test without making it ugly......I bid jobs that I can't test by giving a price range rather than an actual quote. Thanks for the info, that will help!