Removing painted paper from ceilings

[abigmess]

Hello Everyone,
I am a do-it-yourselfer with a big mess. Every room in my 1860's home has paper which was installed in the 1940's (only one layer, thankfully). Since then it has been painted at least 2-3 times. The walls are lath and plaster. I have had luck scoring the paper and using the WallWik system on the walls (but it is still very difficult to remove). Any suggestions for me for removing the paper from the ceilings? I used a steamer in the last room. Never again. Thank you very much for your help.

[Bill Archibald]

Hello Everyone,
I am a do-it-yourselfer with a big mess. Every room in my 1860's home has paper which was installed in the 1940's (only one layer, thankfully). Since then it has been painted at least 2-3 times. The walls are lath and plaster. I have had luck scoring the paper and using the WallWik system on the walls (but it is still very difficult to remove). Any suggestions for me for removing the paper from the ceilings? I used a steamer in the last room. Never again. Thank you very much for your help.

What I have found with most scoring tools is that the holes are too far apart to allow the stripping solution to penetrate and rewet the paste quickly enough. 36 grit sandpaper in a palm sander works really well at busting through a layer of paint. I agree that two or three layers of paint is going to be a REAL pain (and probably, if any of those layers was painted prior to the mid-70's, there may be some lead content). But sand paper, in my 36 years experience, works best to expose the paper backing and allow the stripping solution to work.

Also, make sure you spray multiple coats and allow plenty of time for the solution to soften the paste.

What are you using for a stripping tool? If it's a large "putty knife" try a 4" wallpaper stripper, which uses a razor sharp blade.
1453

Some use a blade like this to "shave" the top layer of painted paper off (while dry) . If it works for you, use it.

Although the wall wik system is useful in some instances, I would advise to use what many of us find to be the best stripping solution Safe & Simple #603 Stripping Solution (http://safeandsimple.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=SAS&Category_Code=WRP)

Dilute to the proper dilution and spray with a garden type sprayer. Again, keep wet and give it time to work. (I've had an occasional stubborn paste that has take between two and three hours to loosen well)

With lots of patience, fortitude and luck, you'll get it done

[Lillian]

Hi A Big Mess

I just finished a ceiling. It was the Paintable Anaglypta paper. I never even considered removing it with anything other than a scraper such as Bill showed you in the pic above.

Olfa has developed some new scrapers that worked great!

www.olfa.com

I stripped or rather scraped 18 single rolls off in about 2 hours.
The blades on these tools are the sharpest I've found. The tool is a little heavier than usual. I thought that would be a problem at first. But it has just enough weight to make it work very well.
Once you get under the layer of painted paper, it should work like a charm.
The paint actually makes it think enough to scrape off the surface.
Good Luck ., I'll try and post the pictures here.
Lillian

[abigmess]

Thank you both for the information. I will definately try the sandpaper, and a different type of scraper.
I was wondering also, when using a liquid spray, how do you keep the liquid from dripping onto natural wood work and damaging the finish? I have had real trouble with baseboards in particular. I try running around and wiping it up immediately, but more always drips. Do you typically "mask" the trim with tape and plastic sheeting? I've tried that too, but the liquid still seems to work its way under the tape and sheeting. Thanks again.

[Bill Archibald]

I was wondering also, when using a liquid spray, how do you keep the liquid from dripping onto natural wood work and damaging the finish? I have had real trouble with baseboards in particular. I try running around and wiping it up immediately, but more always drips. Do you typically "mask" the trim with tape and plastic sheeting? I've tried that too, but the liquid still seems to work its way under the tape and sheeting. Thanks again.

I hear you on all that. A couple of years ago I had a nasty stripping job where the woodwork had just been refinished (talk about the wrong order of doing things) and it was imperative not to allow the messy stripping water to soak the wood. Blue tape released very (too) quickly when wet, duct tape was too aggressive and also released when wet.

Some folks will cut the wallpaper horizontally about 6" to a foot above the base board, and fold the loosened flap down with the expectations that excess water will be diverted - did not work for me.

Finally, I learned that control of application and wiping was the only answer on this job. I adjusted my sprayer to a fine mist so that there was MINIMAL excess solution running down - just enough solution applied to keep the wallpaper moistened - but I still had to wipe up some excess wetness.

This is another good reason to sand or shave as much of the painted wallpaper off as possible. The exposed paper will absorb the solution better than the paint.

I've tried applying with a roller, but still the solution would run off the roller. There is a "new" roller sleeve - a micro-fiber. I hear it works well for a very watery substance we used to seal walls. I will try one in the future.

I wish I had a sure fire way, I hope others will offer their suggestions. And I hope you use what we give here as a basis for exploring new methods. Only one requirement we have, If you find a better way, PLEASE share. We all are always learning from others.

[Lillian]

Hi there, If you feel and think you must use a water/chemical solution on the ceiling. And just scraping won't remove the wallpaper. Is there any way you can remove all furniture from the room? If not then you will need to cover the furniture and floor in layers. Plastic, paper, cloth drops, then plastic and paper again. The paper will absorb most of the moisture, then the excess will hit the cloth, then the plastic will protect the surface of the furniture.
That is why I choose scrapping the ceiling over putting any type of liquid on the surface. The moisture has to sit on the surface of the paper to work. Gravity works against you on ceiling. You could try the dif gel, then press a thin plastic drop onto the gel to hold the moisture in. There again I have applied thinned down paste and put plastic over the surface to hold moisture in also.

That all seems like too much trouble and too messy. When scrapping worked great, and was far less messy. Let us know how it goes.
Good Luck
Or you could go to the zip code section to find a professional to help you out.Thenyu can just go shopping and leave the mess to them.
Keep us posted.
Lillian