Dark Paper Tip

[cgreene]

This is an old trick that I have heard of and seen before. I decided to use it today. Got to job and was presented with a navy blue grasscloth. The walls were light green. I laid out the room to know where my seams would land and I used a bottle of acrylic navy blue(cheep little bottle from JoAnns $1) with some black added and watered down a little. I used my laser to paint straight lines down the wall at the intended seam lines about 2 inches wide. I then sealed all the walls with Draw-Tite, something I always do in my prep, sealing the cheap blue paint. When I got to hanging of the Grasscloth, Didn't have to fight the seams to hide the light walls. Finished 3/4 of job and looked great. I can sleep tonight not worrying about any shrinkage in seams. Was worth the extra prep. Just thought I would share with those of you that haven't yet tried this little trick.

[Elsie Kapteina]

great tip! use to do that a long time ago, and never thought of the "well priced" paints. e

[My-T-Fine]

That is a good tip and I also do that if I feel the situation calls for it. Do you seal with Draw Tight on every job? I've been in an experimental stage with sealers. I like gardz but I'm not sure I like it for everyday use. I'm trying sheildz clear for my next job as the walls are near perfect and have a high quality latex paint on them...I sealed my paste boards with Draw Tight and really like it but have never used it on walls..Speaking of lasers I just picked up a pls180 yesterday and can't wait to use it..My cats seem to like it.

[gadams]

I like Gardz or Drawtite for sealing latex walls ,better than anything.It's penetrating qualities can go through and bind a latex paint into a solid primer coat,ready for wallpaper.

[cgreene]

I always use Draw-Tite on flat paint. I think it will make the removal down the road easier. I'm less scared of the old paint popping while drying. For the hard surface to double cut on if needed. Just a few reasons. Last time I ordered D/t I ordered the regular. It's too runny for me. I don't like the drips down the wall to have to go back and back to brush. So I will go back to the no run next time I order. On all gloss paint I use Shur-Stik 221. It's a de-glosser. Those are the 2 I only use. Never been a fan of Shields. Don't trust it. They may have tweaked it from long time ago, but you know how you feel about something that has failed on you.
I used the dark stripe trick knowing that it was a grasscloth and there would be no going back and trying to fill in the gaps. It was one of those grasscloths that you don't dare get water on. At the end of the day my hands were blue. The cheap paint does work if you seal it so you don't have to run to paint store and try and match your paper. The paint doesn't even have to be the same color, just close. I always have lots of those cheap paints, many colors, on my truck for those little touch-ups that can save the day.

[cgreene]

My cats seem to like it. You will like it even more. You will wonder how you you ever worked with out it.
My dogs will chase a laser pointer all day and beg for more.

[My-T-Fine]

Carolyn, I used Draw Tite no run today and absolutely loved it..What a seal!..It leaves a slippery surface so I was concerned about bubbles but had no issues..Do you always install right on top of it or do you put a prep coat on top sometimes..I like one step processes..I liked it better then gardz which is very runny but it seems very expensive..Do you get it local or order it directly. Thanks!

[Bill Archibald]

Pete,

A few of us have had concern with the slipperyness (is that a word :D ) of DT. The first time for me was with a THIN Brit-pulp. There was no seam creep, but I was concerned and uneasy during installation.

Two solutions - yes I understand each involves another step - either size the wall (real size) or use a wallpaper prep coat. I love the surface provided by Swing Prep Coat on top of Draw-tite.

-Bill

[Bill Archibald]

OH, and one thing I have been meaning to experiment with, but have not had the opportunity in the "lab" (my own house) is to throw some Diatomaceous earth into DT or Gardz. Rumor has it that DE is in Swing and gives it the nice grippy surface.

Hey, who needs a PhD in Chemical Engineering when BS in wallpaper hanging will suffice :roflmao:

[ProWallGuy]

I never use anything over DrawTite or Gardz. If I'm worried about its sheen, I run a sanding pole/screen over it and hang away.

[My-T-Fine]

What is the difference between DT and Gardz? They seem similar to me except one coat of DT seemed like two or three coats of Gardz. The No Run formula is thick and easy tho apply. I'm installing a thin hand trim (not sure what to call it) wallcovering and it couldnt have gone any better. I like the hard surface..You can't really over work a seam but you do have go a little light on the paste as it has to be smoothed perfectly (no porosity)..Doesn't seem like anybody uses R35 any more..I never here mention of it on here..I've low balled (for me) a few of these jobs just to keep busy so I really don't want a two step process but I won't compromise my workmanship..Hey Bill, I have a picture of you in my mind being Doc Brown in Back To The Future..Be careful!

[Bill Archibald]

The story I always heard that no one has ever refuted, is that Scotch Paints first developed the industry's first Drywall Repair Clear <coat> (aka DRC) . Zinsser approached Scotch to buy the patent and the offer was refused. The big Z reversed engineered D-T and made their copy, Gardz. Now, in order not to infringe on the patent, they used less of the unique resin. The percent reduction of the resin is defined in patent laws.

So if it appears to you that one coat of DT Original covers better than one coat of Gardz, that may be the reason. The No-Run formula is very much easier to use than the Original. Do you find it penetrates as deeply as the Original? Some people perceive it does not.

Some still use R35. I think more in commercial settings. I was not happy at stripping time when it exhibbetted the Peeling Sunburned Skin Syndrome (PSSS). Others may have different opinions. I used Swing way back when I was first working on that DeLorean for my Time Travel experiments. I was happy when Marty brought some back (forward) from 1979 recently. :roflmao:

http://www.empireonline.com/images/features/100greatestcharacters/photos/76.jpg

[ProWallGuy]

IMHO the No-Run doesn't penetrate the surface as much as the regular DT or Gardz. And it is also MHO that No-Run was invented for those who do not know how to paint, or use a roller.

[master hanger]

Pete,

A few of us have had concern with the slipperyness (is that a word :D ) of DT. The first time for me was with a THIN Brit-pulp. There was no seam creep, but I was concerned and uneasy during installation.

Two solutions - yes I understand each involves another step - either size the wall (real size) or use a wallpaper prep coat. I love the surface provided by Swing Prep Coat on top of Draw-tite.

-Bill

Guess I'll throw in my .02.

Bill... right on the money with the slipperyness,(yup that's a word), and English papers. :thumbup: White shieldz has that problem. You can sand, but I'm looking for a one step deal as well. Use WS less and less

Clear shieldz works great on the english paper, but It's not my go-to for a good seal to double cut, or as a removal base. Clear can also be tinted very dark, which, to answer the original post, is another option for a dark base.

So.. like everyone else, I want a product that will bond any and everything, and protect the walls at the same time.

DE as an additive huh? Interesting

[My-T-Fine]

I knew that was you Bill Doc Brown..I can't answer your question but I trust Tim and his answer. I had this DT left over from when I sealed my new paste boards so I decided to give it a whirl. I also bought a microfiber roller, pls180, Boggess Pads, Zip Wall System and numerous primers since I joined the guild..You guys are gunna break my already broken bank but hey at least I'm doing my share to stimulate the economy...Just wish they could make one primer one coat for all types of surfaces and all variations of wallcoverings but then what the heck would we talk about :lol:

[Jeff Evans]

The subject of seam splits is interesting to me. When I joined the Guild I read so much about striping the walls with a dark paint at the seams, to cover yourself when/if a dark paper splits. I bought tons of tint and mixed up all kinds of different colored primers. I almost needed a separate shed to store all the blues, reds, brown and other colored primers that were worthless for anything other than that one "special" paper.

Then I saw this light bulb above my head (my peripheral vision is second to none). I realized, after farting around with so much dark primer, that I really hadn't had that many seam splits to begin with. I bought into the new information I was reading and figured I was doing something wrong. I attribute my lack of splits to good table techniques (that I was taught and now practice), as well as using a paste that is the right quantity (too much will cause splits), and the strongest I can get away with. With all due respect to those who do it, striping a wall at the seams, in ANTICIPATION of splits, is like taking an old golf ball out of your bag on a par 3 over water because you "might" hit your good ball in the water. It's planning for failure.

Hanging right on top of Draw Tite will not cause seam splits if you do the following: 1) Use a strong enough paste, in the right quantity. Too much paste will tend to invite splits. 2) Allow the paper sufficient time to relax. You want all the movement over with by the time you apply the sheets. 3) In my opinion, wet trimming paper gives a better chance at success here. You are able to paste clean, thus eliminating excess wiping after hanging the sheet. You can get a perfectly parallel sheet with wet trimming, because you will be trimming it after all the expansion has taken place. You wont be fighting the seams and causing undue stress that can lead to splitting. 4) Occasionally, sanding Draw tite does make me feel better, and I actually like the surface a little better. 5) If you're really not sure roll on a coat of adhesive size.

A few weeks ago I was installing a blue Burlap material over Draw Tite. I normally use 234 on this material, but I had 838 on hand so that's what I used. After hanging 3 sheets I didn't feel good about how it was going, and pretty soon I could see minuscule white lines in the form of splits. I went and got the 234 and solved the problem. I probably could have sized the seams with more 838, or clay, but why add a step if I know straight 234 will take care of it? I sometimes wonder if all these splits are due to not using a strong enough paste, or the absence of a size? Anyway...:2cents:

[Bill Archibald]

First Jeff, who takes out an "old" ball to tee off over the pond? I take out a new Pro V1 and just throw it in. And once that's out of my system, I lay a Top Flight on the green. :roflmao:


Ah, the techniques we all have to hang so seems do not split. A book could be written with a different chapter dedicated to each method. And it would be a book of facts.

I have so many solutions depending on the paper, I could fill five chapters at least.

And they were all a result of tweaking my original methods by listening to the many opinions found on the internet, at conventions, at chapter meetings, and working with others.

God bless us, every one :thumbup:

[cgreene]

Pete-I have asked Scotch Paint chemist and he says you can hang right over it. I am scared of hanging on slick surfaces, but I do hang over D/T. Sometimes I will size the D/T with Shur-Stik 111 thinned down. Many call sizing with 111 poor mans blankstock. It absorbs moisture and it also has tack when it re-wets. I like the way this system sets seams tight quickly. I use to size my walls with 111 when I hung a lot of prepasted. Sounds like you have hooked yourself up with all the right tools to become a professional:lol:
Carolyn

[My-T-Fine]

Pete-I have asked Scotch Paint chemist and he says you can hang right over it. I am scared of hanging on slick surfaces, but I do hang over D/T. Sometimes I will size the D/T with Shur-Stik 111 thinned down. Many call sizing with 111 poor mans blankstock. It absorbs moisture and it also has tack when it re-wets. I like the way this system sets seams tight quickly. I use to size my walls with 111 when I hung a lot of prepasted. Sounds like you have hooked yourself up with all the right tools to become a professional:lol:
Carolyn

I wonder how many rolls the chemist has hung? I guess they field test their product so I'll have to take their word for it...I've hung over mica for years now (mostly heads in old Hatteras yachts) and that's kinda what DT feels like..I have hung thousands of yards over it and can only remember one problem with bubbles..The mica had some wax or something on it that it didnt matter how much I scuffed it up (i used 40 grit) and primed it I kept getting bubbles..Blankstock solved that one so now I'll only hang it that way..I've never sized with paste ever besides pre pasting outside corners and small wraps...Can somebody give me an approximate cost of a gallon of DT..I can't lift 5's anymore due to my back...They wanna charge me like $35 a gallon...

[cgreene]

5's anymore due to my back...They wanna charge me like $35 a gallon...

Some in my chapter have that same problem, but also to keep the draw-tite from getting dry scales on the side of the buckets, that sometimes have to be strained out, they divide the D/T up in gallon plastic bottles with lids that screw on tight. Can't tell you what gallons cost. I'm fortunate to live with-in 35 miles to where Draw-Tite is made, so they drop my orders of 5's on my front porch.:cool::banana:

[My-T-Fine]

5's anymore due to my back...They wanna charge me like $35 a gallon...

Some in my chapter have that same problem, but also to keep the draw-tite from getting dry scales on the side of the buckets, that sometimes have to be strained out, they divide the D/T up in gallon plastic bottles with lids that screw on tight. Can't tell you what gallons cost. I'm fortunate to live with-in 35 miles to where Draw-Tite is made, so they drop my orders of 5's on my front porch.:cool::banana:

I just lucked out..I asked my supplier how many gallons they had and they said 11 singles..They want to get rid of it.They don't even sell it its from a closed down store..So the guy said they would be $35 a gallon..I asked for the manager who I've known for years and asked what he could do for me..He said he wanted them out to just take them all and give him $45 total..What a score..I asked if they would come with a free shake from time to time and he said sure..They look kind of old..rusty tops but so did my last gallon and it was fine...I could strain them if need be in a stocking...So I'm good for awhile..On a side note, the laser was simply awesome hanging stripes today..woo hoo!:thumbup:

[cgreene]

It's planning for failure.

Jeff I was thinking about that statement you posted. I don't think anybody ever plans for failure. After working in this trade for so long I can pretty much look at a paper and know where there might be pit falls. If I see something that might come back to bite me in the butt I try and prevent it. I would say a little bit of extra prep and incorporating a few tricks which I prefer to call insurance is most professional.

[Bill Archibald]

..They look kind of old..rusty tops but so did my last gallon and it was fine...I could strain them if need be in a stocking...So I'm good for awhile..

Pete,

Take some advise from someone who's been there.

many years ago I bought more D-T than I could use in a timely manner. the tops rusted and then the bottoms..... well you can image how short a time it was for little holes in the bottom to develop.

I transfered my older (rusty) cans into plastic containers.

[My-T-Fine]

Pete,

Take some advise from someone who's been there.

many years ago I bought more D-T than I could use in a timely manner. the tops rusted and then the bottoms..... well you can image how short a time it was for little holes in the bottom to develop.

I transfered my older (rusty) cans into plastic containers.

That's what I'll do..Good idea..I mean at that price I really had nothing to lose..

[Jeff Evans]

It's planning for failure.

Jeff I was thinking about that statement you posted. I don't think anybody ever plans for failure. After working in this trade for so long I can pretty much look at a paper and know where there might be pit falls. If I see something that might come back to bite me in the butt I try and prevent it. I would say a little bit of extra prep and incorporating a few tricks which I prefer to call insurance is most professional.

Carol,

I was more speaking to the practice in general than to you doing it. If you know a paper has a tendency to split, you have a choice. Actually you have 3 choices. You accept it, and let it do what it's going to do (least professional), you stripe the walls so that the splits show a matching paint color and don't stand out (a little more professional), or you dig into your bag of professional tricks to come up with a solution to combat that tendency. And there are many solutions; blank stock, size the seams, sand and size the seams, roll on a coat of swing, the list goes on. The point is, you are indeed accepting the result ahead of time by striping the seams- in my opinion. How many papers have you removed over the years where the seams were striped? I've never seen one personally.

[jim27577]

That is a old trick...I should Know...been hanging in there for 48 yrs. to dumb to find a real job.

Love the Guardz, it is also great for sealing Pulled sheetrock and any adhesive that did not wash off.

[Parodi]

This is an old trick that I have heard of and seen before. I decided to use it today. Got to job and was presented with a navy blue grasscloth. The walls were light green. I laid out the room to know where my seams would land and I used a bottle of acrylic navy blue(cheep little bottle from JoAnns $1) with some black added and watered down a little. I used my laser to paint straight lines down the wall at the intended seam lines about 2 inches wide. I then sealed all the walls with Draw-Tite, something I always do in my prep, sealing the cheap blue paint. When I got to hanging of the Grasscloth, Didn't have to fight the seams to hide the light walls. Finished 3/4 of job and looked great. I can sleep tonight not worrying about any shrinkage in seams. Was worth the extra prep. Just thought I would share with those of you that haven't yet tried this little trick.

Cyndi, The first time I used Benjamin Moore Aura Matte when it came out I was surprised when I had difficultly removing a drip from a tile floor on the same day I painted. Normally a hot, wet rag will melt away a fresh drip even a few days after it dripped. I tested some of this paint on a Sheetrock sample in my basement and found that Aura MATTE (not the glosses) is almost impervious to moisture as soon as two hours after application and drying.

I'm not a big fan of coloring stripes under seams and lean towards Jeff Evan's approach of proper technique over the color band safety net. But in the case of dark grasses which need selvage trimming I make an exception. I hung a silk-screened grass ($240 sr) in a deep red using Aura MATTE underneath the seams in December and it really saved me a lot of time as a one-step approach. The matte maintains its wet integrity even in the deep bases.

[blauvelt]

I have never striped walls and probably never will. The were certainly times I wished I did.

Hey, if it makes your day easier and the job look better why not?

[Jeff Evans]

I hung a dark blue grasscloth the other day over white primed walls with Swing prep coat on top. No need for striping because proper technique wins every time, and saves you time as well. It's not black magic. It's time honored table techniques that have been taught since long before all of us were born.

Let's break it down:

Stripe the walls with a dark blue- trip to the paint store for the right color, application and drying time of striped paint, seal it all with a clear prep coat, install paper. That's more than 1 day of work right there.

Or:

Arrive at work in the morning and prep coat the walls, after dry time install paper. Collect check and go to the bank with big smile and schedule new job for the following day.

I've said my peace on this...

[cgreene]

Arrive at job, unload, check little bottles of $1 paints to get paint close to dark paper. Lay out room to where your seams will land. Set up laser and stripe with paint. By the time you get around room, about 1/2 hour the paint is dry and ready for Draw tite. Roll room with Draw Tite another maybe 45 minutes. Set up table and etc. Lay out room.oops already did that:roflmao: Draw-tite now dry ready for hanging. Hang paper. 6 hours later end of story. One Day.

[Jeff Evans]

:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

[Chris Nelson]

Jeff, I think you and Cyndi need to meet face to face and duke it out.:bash:

[Chris Murphy]

I agree with you, Jeff. It's not the cost of a material that should dictate the technique, but the characteristics of the material itself. Gapped seams are a sign of bad table technique and/or wrong paste. I like 880 for a lot of 'natural textures' but usually not straight- it takes too long to wet out, and then to dry. I often mix it with 234 (or add it to 234) to get the material to set and dry quickly.

[blauvelt]

I don't think that these posters are talking about every seam splitting from ceiling to floor. When I finish a died grass I always walk around the room with an architectural pencil and fill in here and there where it needs it.

If I ever hit lotto and get to hire a paperhanger and saw them stripe the walls as an extra insurance measure for dark paper I would think they are conscientious and are trying to do the best job they can. I wouldn't at all have a problem with it.

[cgreene]

Jeff and I are best friends. Belong to the same LA Chapter. He is an excellent hanger and I like to think I am good. I know where everyone is coming from. We all have our tricks and tools to get the job done the best we can. There are 2 cgreenes. I am Carolyn. I don't think Cindi would want credit for my babel. :eek::roflmao:

[Jeff Evans]

Yes, cgreene is Carol, not Cyndi, and I'm not trying to single her out. But she's posting so I'm just replying. I'd say the same thing in the same way at a chapter meeting because I am not calling her out.

My issue is with methods and not people doing them. I'm sorry this is getting lost somehow, but what I'm trying to say is that there's a more refined way of doing things, and that way is getting lost in a sea of wall striping, and double cutting (pads or not included).

If you take the time to learn, and practice, and perfect basic table techniques, you will find your options not only broaden, but you will also find that you actually prefer the table to doing the work on the wall. This includes striping the walls.

I recently installed 14' long panels of 46" wide Hinson Madagascar cloth. If I were to double cut the stuff on the wall I'd have to hang the sheet, put a pad underneath, tape the seam to protect it from paste from the next sheet, double cut the seam, and pull the waste out.

The way I actually did it was paste the sheets on the table, trim wet, and install them on the wall. No splits, no pads, no tape, less time involved. The same works for dark papers on white walls. If you let the paper relax, get a good, parallel sheet, and have a sufficiently strong adhesive you don't need painted seams.

I ask the question again- How many removal jobs have you all done where the seams were striped underneath? And if I found myself suddenly rich I'd hire myself to hang my paper, because-finally- I could afford myself. ;)

[LaRusso]

Well said Jeff!

I am going to chime in and add it does not matter how you install it, it matters what works for you.

The most important thing about this or any shop talk about how to hang or install a product - are we getting PAID! If so GREAT! If not then you better listen to all advice and listen good!

Yes I also agree you can pick up a trick or info from time to time. Everyone out there that installs wall coverings has something to offer or share (hopefully) and that is why we are members, because we are always learning from one another.

If any of us do not like the way he/she installs a product and finds it to be WRONG in thier eyes, so be it.

There is no wrong way to install wall coverings (FROM A PROFESSIONALS POINT OF VIEW) it is what makes them feel comfortable and it works for them.

I am sure that most if not all have the same basic skills and then we incorperate our own way of engineering the project.

So, all installers out there in wall covering land bring ever and any tips, tricks, tools, no how's, do how's and any other how to do it, we love to hear from all of you.

have a great day and a great weekend,

Vincent J. LaRusso
Metro Regional Director

[blauvelt]

Hi Vincent, I couldn't disagree with your post anymore than I do.

There are levels of different techniques that I will go along with but not all. The attitude of " it doesn't matter how you install it" and "are we getting paid" hurt the wallpaper business. (in my opinion)

When some one hires a hack to install their paper and in 6 months the seams are popping or they spend a weekend destroying bathroom walls removing paper because the guy didn't prime then a faux finish starts to look pretty good to them.

[LaRusso]

This is why I do not post alot. Sorry if it comes off that way. I only hope you will join us and maybe help me with my writing skills. For I need some help.

You are right, but you can not tell me every job you have had the pleasure to work on was a 100% success. If so you are a better man then I.

I write something down the way I say it in my head and it does not translate to you the way I would say it in person.

I was only talking about professional installers, not hacks, do-it-yourselfers or fly by nighters.

You might be left handed and I right. You may not need a ladder on some projects, for you are tall, I need a ladder always. (Just some examples)

Everyone is different and that means we all work in different ways.

My intentions were to compliment each and everyone for helping out in one way or another. Not to annoy anyone..

We are all professionals of wall covering installations and I hope we all take pride in what we do. Do we make mistakes, yes. Do we come across different situations from time to time of course. Does the project go smoothly, not always. Are Designers bossy and want it done yesterday, from time to time.
Some are.

So, here is a wallpaper organization (the only one in the World) that installers can find answers to a problem or project that he or she has never installed.

All over our great nation there is different types of installers - those who only install pre-pasted for that is what the community calls for. Those you only work in hotels. Then you have your neck of the woods that work on expensive homes.

All good and all professionals, but from time to time you may have a pre-pasted project and they may have a high end project and each needs a little guidance to walk them through.

Sometimes you need a little help or explanation and then you see it in a better way and say thanks for your help, its all good.

Thats what I was trying to say.

Together we can make a difference

Thanks,

Vincent J. LaRusso
Metro Regional Director

[blauvelt]

Gotcha Vincent. Now I can agree with you. :)

I'm not the one who can help you with writting.

Me a 100% ? That's a good one.

[master hanger]

Just my take FWIW

I never have colored seams, edges ,or whatever. Painters and hangers I've done, and still do work for, have done it thinking they're helping me out. I say thank you very much, do the job ,get paid, and go home. I they ask what I think... I tell them, if they don't ask, there's nothing to say.

I can table trim with the best of them, but DC when I feel it's warranted. Clear paste, clay,powder, bit of both, done all that. Pick a topic, I've been there, figured it out my way. Come to appreciate with age that there are many ways to get the same result, and I respect anyone's effort to that end. Stopped trying to convince people long ago it has to be one way.

Reminds of a job a few years back when I was called to install what another hanger was having trouble with. The owner was hell bent on bad mouthing the other hanger's work and wanted me to evaluate it. My answer to him and anyone else who asks is...
you called me to do a job. I can tell you how my job will turn out. That's it. I have no desire to criticise anyone's effort. Your reasons for not liking it are your own. I can redo it.

I try to refrain from commenting in a negative way here as well. I respect what I do and respect the others in my trade and their approach.. albeit different from mine

[Bill Archibald]

I write something down the way I say it in my head and it does not translate to you the way I would say it in person.

I love it ! :2thumbs: :2thumbs:

BTW, If I wrote what those voices in MY head say, I'd be in front of a firing squad :roflmao:


Jeff talks about proper table techniques, but in the old days before I joined the NGPP, I would take grass and hang it right off the bolt - no trimming and I never had wall showing. I hung grass then with wheat.

Go figure.

[LaRusso]

Thanks Dennis you wrote what I was trying to write. Only you did a better job.

Thanks again, what works for you keep doing it. Thats a great thing.

That goes for everyone you installs wall coverings. I guess the old proverb is there are more ways then one to skin a cat. Same goes for our trade.

I have been installing wall coverings for over 29 years in the NYC Union and on my own, all over the World and I still have something to learn, each and everyday.

Only trying to help our trade move forward in the right direction, and that would be for all of us professionals to have enough work to last us until the next millenuim.

Please understand I am very passionate about what I do and I am sure the same goes for each one of you. I am trying to grow our organization so we can make a better World in the wall covering industry and with the NGPP we are on our way.

Members in South Africa, England, Austrailia, Mexico, Japan, Canada and the U.S.A. each and everyday 14,000 hits on our web site from all over the World.

Iceland, India, Germany, France, Russia and the list goes on and on, they need thier products install by professionals, why not us is what I say.

Are you with me, if you install wall covering the answer is simple.

Thanks again for your post,

Vincent J. LaRusso
Metro Regional Director

[blauvelt]

Member poster Parodi,
Are you the one who did the testing on Jackson Squares for Philip Jeffries? If you are the results of your testing came too late. By looking at this stuff I thought for sure it would hang with clear paste and a good booking. This powder room should've taken no more than an hour or so. I ended up stopping in every day for the next 4 days wetting, poking, and rolling out blisters.

<a href="http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o81/blauvelt407/?action=view&current=DSCF1976.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o81/blauvelt407/DSCF1976.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[Jeff Evans]

Member poster Parodi,
Are you the one who did the testing on Jackson Squares for Philip Jeffries? If you are the results of your testing came too late. By looking at this stuff I thought for sure it would hang with clear paste and a good booking. This powder room should've taken no more than an hour or so. I ended up stopping in every day for the next 4 days wetting, poking, and rolling out blisters.

<a href="http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o81/blauvelt407/?action=view&current=DSCF1976.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o81/blauvelt407/DSCF1976.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Where's the Holenpoker when you need it? :roflmao: Jim can tell you about that one.

[Chris Nelson]

. I am Carolyn.

Sorry about that and I was just kidding about dukeing it out. I do know you guys get along out there.:llama:

[Parodi]

Member poster Parodi,
Are you the one who did the testing on Jackson Squares for Philip Jeffries? If you are the results of your testing came too late. By looking at this stuff I thought for sure it would hang with clear paste and a good booking. This powder room should've taken no more than an hour or so. I ended up stopping in every day for the next 4 days wetting, poking, and rolling out blisters.


I feel your pain. Yes I did the testing of this material. Get the next issue of PWC magazine and you will see a paper that looks like your paper. I have not identified the paper in the column to avoid the legal BS involved. If you for some reason can't get the magazine, e me after it comes out (I think it's coming out in July ....jimparodi@hvc.rr.com) and I will send you the column. You will forgive me if I don't post it here---I haven't gotten paid yet for it.

[blauvelt]

Parodi, Gotcha and thanks.

I was finally able to get the stuff acceptable. Next time I will use your method.

[wallliner]

hi,

All trics are welcomed, but to save you guys from problems, i know someone who has a collection of dark colored blankstock.

Uncle Edy

[Bill Archibald]

hi,

All trics are welcomed, but to save you guys from problems, i know someone who has a collection of dark colored blankstock.

Uncle Edy

Now why didn't we think of that

DOH! :headslap:

thanks Ed !

[cgreene]

That would take planning ahead. Something I have trouble with. That's why I stock as much as I can. I think I will, try some of your colored liners. Do they bleed at all? I think that is why I have been Leary of them. Thanks for reminding us you carry such a thing.
Carolyn

[wallliner]

they are very rich colors, there is a very slight bleeding that is normal for heavy load of pigment.
ed