Silk Dynasty ?

[Chris Nelson]

A ha! I probably could have figured that out. Thanks.

[Paul P]

Originally posted by Bill Archibald


Chris,

Paul is from Columbia, SC. .......

Bill

That's right, I'm down south here. Ya'll gonna have to drop in sometime now, ya hear. I'll whip ya up some grits and some hush puppies along side a plate of chitlins.

[Tim Bodine]

If you are talking collards and fried corn bread, I'm on my way.

Or a ham hock in a crockpot w/blackeyed peas and a side of fried squash, I'll buy a plane ticket.

And don't forget the boiled p-nuts

[Bill Archibald]

Gosh Durn, I'm gettin hungry, all we got is Clam Chowda, Lobster, and Sam Adams (I'll dredge up a Bud for you, Tim, but it was probably brewed in Merrimack NH )


With what you guys are servin, I wish the South had won :p

-Bill

[Paul P]

Originally posted by Bill Archibald
Gosh Durn, I'm gettin hungry, all we got is Clam Chowda, Lobster, and Sam Adams (I'll dredge up a Bud for you, Tim, but it was probably brewed in Merrimack NH )


With what you guys are serving, I wish the South had won :p

-Bill

Tim's main entrée sounds a lot better than my chitlins ( I can't stand chitlins By-The-Way).

Bills sounds like a fantastic spread. I used to work for Bose and was in Framingham a lot. Going out to eat up there was an experience. I couldn't find "Sweet Tea" anywhere and people looked at me funny when I asked for ketchup for my French fries.

I forgot all about the boiled P-Nuts. The big joke at our Bose office was to go out and get a bag of boiled P-Nuts for the folks who came down from Mass. . Almost every one of them went home with a bottle of mustard base Barbecue sauce though.

I'll tell you one thing, I won't miss landing at Logan. They slam the planes on the ground. No such thing as a smooth landing there. That, and riding through "The Big Dig" work site.

[Bill Archibald]

Well now that we've gone WAY off topic....

Paul, hope you had the pleasure of eating at Legal Seafood's Framingham location (on the other side of Framingham on Rte 9 from Bose).

I am surprised anyone looked at you funny for the Catsup with your FF's, I thought that was standard - almost everywhere.

One (of the many) reason I do not fly anymore was one of those landings at O'Hare. I don't think Logan has the exclusive to hard drops. There are MANY MANY more reasons why not to use Logan, though. Living equi-distance between Boston and Providence, I advise visitors to use T F Green (Providence). One can disembark and be the 45 minutes to my door before they get out of the parking lot at Logan. However, if you are just visiting the city itself, try the water shuttle from Logan over to Rose Wharf. About a ten minute ride.

-Bill

[Joseph Parker]

By the way, we're looking at developing a section on this website with areas for difficult paper experiences and how we "tamed" them. Many of the silk dynasty papers have several ways to skin the cat.

Recently we hung the "copper patina" paper, well.....its really not paper but actual strips of copper, we found the instructions enclosed a good base to start with but after two strips we found a much better process.

It's reassuring to talk with someone who has hung them, just last night I got some advice from Chris Murphy on a mural we are hanging today and tomorrow.

Happy memorial day!

Joe

[Paul P]

Originally posted by Joseph Parker
By the way, we're looking at developing a section on this website with areas for difficult paper experiences and how we "tamed" them. Many of the silk dynasty papers have several ways to skin the cat.

Recently we hung the "copper patina" paper, well.....its really not paper but actual strips of copper, we found the instructions enclosed a good base to start with but after two strips we found a much better process.

It's reassuring to talk with someone who has hung them, just last night I got some advice from Chris Murphy on a mural we are hanging today and tomorrow.

Happy memorial day!

Joe

Great Idea !

I was going to suggest that you have like a "one time" help deal where guys like me can come and "try out" your resources and get the experience of what the Guild has to offer. I took a chance by posting here in the DIY section hoping that someone would interact with me. Had there been a "Try out our resource's" section I would have definitely gone there with this.

I know I'm sold on the value of the help here after my exchange.

You may catch a few more guild members this way as I was hesitant to post in the DIY section thinking I would not get the help I was looking for. I'm not a DIY'er I am a skilled hanger. There might also have been some ego involved in my hesitation to post where I did.

I am very glad I decided to give it a shot.

Just some thoughts......

[Tim Bodine]

You may catch a few more guild members this way as I was hesitant to post in the DIY section thinking I would not get the help I was looking for. I'm not a DIY'er I am a skilled hanger. There might also have been some ego involved in my hesitation to post where I did.

My thoughts exactly. I'm glad the name has been changed. A DIY wouldn't have a clue as to what is meant by a lot of things discussed here.

MHO

[K.L. Conner]

The only thing that is still at issue is what to smooth it out with. I tried a plastic smoother and it did OK till I knocked out a chunk

Smoothing this stuff out is almost as fun as doublecutting
the seams, so try this. I use a vinyl smoothing brush, and
you gotta get mean with it. I then drag the smoother
over it for pesky spots.

Seams as going to be a tough one to explain. Home
Depot has a commercial seam buster for about 3 bucks.
This is the one you guide with your index finger, typically
it has a red grip. Break the area that holds the tip of the blade
off. This gives you the full corner of the blade. Home Depot
also has a 1/8 metal yard stick( actually it's 48"), if you rest
the side of the red plastic grip on the yardstick the corner of
the blade is exactly the amount of blade you need to go
through two layers of the material. In my opinion the
width of the utility knife blade is a little wide.

K.L.

[Paul P]

Originally posted by K.L. Conner
The only thing that is still at issue is what to smooth it out with. I tried a plastic smoother and it did OK till I knocked out a chunk

Smoothing this stuff out is almost as fun as double cutting
the seams, so try this. I use a vinyl smoothing brush, and
you gotta get mean with it. I then drag the smoother
over it for pesky spots.

Seams as going to be a tough one to explain. Home
Depot has a commercial seam buster for about 3 bucks.
This is the one you guide with your index finger, typically
it has a red grip. Break the area that holds the tip of the blade
off. This gives you the full corner of the blade. Home Depot
also has a 1/8 metal yard stick( actually it's 48"), if you rest
the side of the red plastic grip on the yardstick the corner of
the blade is exactly the amount of blade you need to go
through two layers of the material. In my opinion the
width of the utility knife blade is a little wide.

K.L.

Thanks for the tips on the brush. Sounds like another one to try on the first couple of sheets till we get a system down.

As for double cuts, to tell you the truth we laid it out on the table and dry cut the edges. Just measured out from the pattern in the center to find the line and chopped away. I should let you know that it was about 90 Deg. outside and we were in a garage where it may have been 85 Deg ambient. The material cut pretty well. We pasted the material with clay and let it sit for about 20 mins. Pasted it again and then went and pasted the wall. All in all we let it relax about 45 - 50 minutes. Stuck it up there and went through the process with the second sheet. It seamed very nicely. We also picked a place where we could run an inside corner and an outside corner. It all went pretty well. I didn't think we were going to get it to push around very well but it did. We didn't even try the double cut because the dry cut worked so well.

Thank you again K.L. for your interest in sharing your method with me.

[Chris Murphy]

I'll soon have pictures of a Patina (copper sheets) job I did. John Little & Doug Berry hung some on a coffered ceiling, and had some good tips. Best one was that where the material curled up, bend it back the other way and press down. Otherwise the metal wouldn't lay down.
Joe, you need to get access to Dynamite 111 & 433 to experience the thrill of full-strength clay pastes. I'll have Frank N. bring some to Orlando & demonstrate it on the practice walls. You'll never go back to others, I guarantee it.
Also on my site is a job that I did in Columbia (speaking of it) on 12/02 with KL that I thought went stunningly well but that I had to hire a lawyer to get paid. Added written content is being added as we speak.
The jobs featured on the site are meant to show customers possibilities, not intimidate other hangers. See, I feel that 90% of hanging is science: results can be replicated by following the same steps (but following them to the letter). Minute variations in technique can lead to huge differences in results, and the "why" of that may not be apparent. That's why I don't always give advice on specific materials to those whose methods I don't know. But I do feel that anything I hang can be hung by anyone else, and vice versa. The art of hanging comes in in the engineering (placement, etc.) and finishing touches (attention to details, covering plates, etc.). Do them enough, they become "science," too.

Murph

http://www.ScenicHanger.com

[HangingInThere]

Well, I realize this thread is a bit ancient, but it certainly piqued my curiosity. Although I've hung my fair share of Silk Dynasty, regretably, I've not had the "unique pleasure" of ever having to deal with the ceramics.

Paul's description of the method he used left out some important details which my "inquiring mind wants to know."

Here's what I gather went down: (1) The detail boxes on the walls were just slightly less in width than two panels/drops. (2) This resulted in one centrally located seam which was a butt-seam set up by table trimming the material dry. (3) Edge trimming against the outside edge of the detail box moulding??

{aside} I'd looked at the Silk Dynasty copper "Patina" while at the International Market Square here in Minneapolis earlier than the forementioned install, but never realized it was on actual copper sheets...way cool! I thought at that time, and still do, the stuff is georgeous!

The other day I decided to take a gander at the ceramics while waiting in the showroom at the Hirshfields Design Center, just to become familiar with the beast, after reading this thread. This got me to thinking...

So, if my understanding is correct, the outside edges of the detail boxes were where the product was trimmed to the moulding?? Rather than, table trimming the outside edges to butt against the detail box mouldings and then double-cutting the resulting overlap in the center.

If this is correct, what procedure was used for trimming the product to the detail box moulding?? I'm under the impression that the product's mil thickness would not allow for it to be pressed from wall to moulding in a decent 90 to trim? Also, did the ceramic actually cut cleanly, or did it "fracture" resulting in a more jagged edge??

Hopefully, Paul is still subscribed to the thread...or, K.L. who others here have intimated as Carson's replacement for "Carnac The Magnificent," knows whereof I speak...probably, before I ever even considered posting this... might chime in!